Four formulating tips to inculcate in formulating products better suitable for the African environment and consumer.

• Always add an antioxidant:

Adding an antioxidant to the skin and hair care products is crucial to protect skin and hair health. West Africa has a tropical climate and adding an antioxidant to the products will protect clients against damage caused by UVA/UVB rays. Studies have shown that hair exposure to excess sunlight can cause hair breakage and damage.

Many dark-skin clients in some parts of Africa use skin lightening agents or have used harsh products on the skin, and as a result, the skin’s barrier defense mechanism has become weak. Add antioxidant ingredients to leave on products like leave-in conditioner, body lotion, facial cream, body oil, serums, etc.

Antioxidants include vitamin E, alpha-bisabolol, Centella Asiatica, Green tea extract, Licorice extract, Coenzyme q 10, Niacinamide, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.

 

• pH balance: 

Ensure the pH of the product is similar to that of the skin.

What is the skin’s pH? The skin’s pH is around 4.5 to 5.5. The target is to have products measure an average pH of 4.00 to 6.00. This helps to protect the skin’s acid mantle, ability to defend itself, sensitization, and dehydration.

This tip does not apply to all formulations as some formulas like bar soaps need a high pH, and some actives are stable above or below the average pH.

 

• Add a chelating agent: 

What is a chelating agent? A chelating agent binds to ions and can remove particular ions that can adsorb to the skin. It enables body wash and shampoo to perform and foam better.

Chelating agents improve product stability, and different factors affect product stability. It increases the stability and shelf life of ingredients like kojic acid in combination with antioxidants.

It also boosts preservative systems.

Examples of chelating agents:

Sodium gluconate

phytic acid

Tetrasodium EDTA

Disodium EDTA

sodium phytate

 

• Add skin barrier protective ingredients in leave on formulas:

In Nigeria and other parts of West Africa, many clients use harsh products that disrupt the skin barrier, sensitize and affect the acid mantle. Adding a skin barrier protective ingredient helps the skin protect itself, increase its ability to rejuvenate, and slow down skin aging. Oils rich in linoleic acid can help heal the skin barrier.

These include:

occlusives: mango butter, shea butter

emollients: grapeseed oil, rice bran oil, hemp seed oil, etc